Blast from the past: Appia

The Appia of 1961 was the first car ferry of the Italian state-controlled operator Adriatica. She joined the equally new Greek (Hellenic Mediterranean Lines)-owned Egnatia on a ground-breaking joint service from Brindisi to Corfu, Igoumenitsa and Patras, the Adriatic’s first proper car ferry operation. The ships, which proved a great success, took their names from the two Roman roads which, on their respective sides of the sea, connected Rome with Constantinople (Istanbul). We will return to the Egnatia and HML at a later date – unlike their Greek counterparts, Adriatica still exists, in a much denuded form, as a small and seemingly unwanted division of Tirrenia. The failure of either operator to properly build on the early success of the Egnatia and Appia has to be viewed as something of a tragedy given the possibilities that existed in the Adriatic market, as exemplified today by the modern and heretofore broadly profitable services of relative newcomers like Minoan Lines, ANEK and Superfast.

The Appia was as far removed as can be imagined from the current speedy leviathans yet, at her introduction, she was fairly revolutionary – Italy’s first drive-on international car ferry. Her inaugural brochure proclaims “a new, comfortable and fast means of conveyance; she is the answer to the requirements of modern tourism, of which motoring is so great a part. The crossing between Brindisi and the west coast of Greece takes approximately eight hours and can be made in comfort at remarkably little expense.

“If desired the crossing can be extended to take in the sea trip between Igoumenitsa and Patras – this trip, always made in daylight hours, is of the greatest interest, the island scenery being unfailingly beautiful”.

The ship in size and speed seems quite puny now – her two Fiat diesel engines providing a 17 knot service speed which powered her 706 overnight passengers on the 19 and a half hour (with a following wind) through crossing to Patras.

A pre-construction imagining of the Appia...
A pre-delivery imagining of the Appia...

... and the real thing as delivered.
... and the real thing as delivered.

Later Adriatica brochures would detail her onboard delights: “a one class ship with dayroom, bar, restaurant, swimming pool, lido, snack bar, promenades and sun decks. There is also an information service on board, a shop, automatic dispensers of hot and cold drinks and – an entirely new idea – telecinema equipment which transmits to various parts of the ship normal television programmes, films and live entertainments and reportage. No effort has been spared to make the passenger comfortable, the decor especially demonstrates the designers’ desire to capture the holiday mood, without sacrificing any elegance or convenience.”

That decor was very slightly more staid than might have been expected had the Appia been built slightly further into the ’60s but it was not unattractive and the traditional Italian pegboard ceilings and polished linoleum floors could be found throughout. The ship’s nicely-detailed circular swimming pool featured an eminently photographable water slide which slotted in between a gap in the mainmast. Cabin space was for just 200, the balance of her passenger load being accommodated on deck or in the various reclining seat lounges, the largest being located just beneath the bridge. The relatively small vehicle deck (for up to 100 cars) had cabins running alongside at the upper level leaving a small centreline area astern for up to six coaches to be carried in an area aft of a very wide centre casing.

The ship's tightly-packed car deck, which would prove restrictive in the ship's later years.
The ship's tightly-packed car deck, which would prove restrictive in the ship's later years.
Astern on the lower of the main passenger decks, Deck C, was the main restaurant, as conceived (above) and completed (below).
Astern on the lower of the main passenger decks, Deck C, was the main restaurant, as conceived (above) and completed (below).
The restaurant was linked to the lobby, amidships, by this starboard-side arcade.
The restaurant was linked to the lobby, amidships, by this starboard-side arcade.
The main C Deck lobby.
The main C Deck lobby.
On the deck above, B Deck, forward was this large observation saloon filled with reclining seats.
On the deck above, B Deck, forward was this large observation saloon filled with reclining seats.
Astern on this deck was the “Sala Soggiorno??? or Living Room, seen here as visualised in the inaugural brochure.
Astern on this deck was the “Sala Soggiorno??? or Living Room, seen here as visualised in the inaugural brochure.
The same area as completed.
The same area as completed.
Aft on A Deck, the outside decks were served by this lido bar.
Aft on A Deck, the outside decks were served by this lido bar.
A pre-delivery image of the ship's shapely swimming pool and slide, aft on A Deck.
A pre-delivery image of the ship's shapely swimming pool and slide, aft on A Deck.
The pool in use mid-crossing.
The pool in use mid-crossing.
The ship offered seven "Deluxe" two-berth cabins with private facilities including a full bath as well as one suite on C Deck, complete with private sitting area with TV and radio, as seen here.
The ship offered seven 'Deluxe' two-berth cabins with private facilities including a full bath as well as one suite on C Deck, complete with private sitting area with TV and radio, as seen here.
The sleeping area of one of the deluxe cabins.
The sleeping area of one of the deluxe cabins.
The bulk of the ship's cabin accommodation comprised Pullman-style rooms without facilities, which could be converted to night (above) or day (below) use.
The bulk of the ship's cabin accommodation comprised Pullman-style rooms without facilities, which could be converted to night (above) or day (below) use.
Unloading in Brindisi.
Unloading in Brindisi.

The Appia gave Adriatica loyal service for over 30 years, finally being sold to Indian interests in 1992 who briefly operated her as the Fibi before she headed to Alang for scrapping in 1995.

Her famous operators still had a few good years left, but their final conventional purpose-builds for the international services, the incredible trio of flops the Palladio, Sansovino and Laurana, were a dangerous warning sign that all was not well. Ships and time-honoured routes were quickly shed as the operation lost its independence and fell under a seemingly disinterested Tirrenia management in Naples. In 2010, the year in which perhaps Adriatica’s most famous ship, the ex-Ausonia, finally headed for scrap, there are further serious doubts about the future of the sole remaining service, from Bari to Durres in Albania, of what is now simply Tirrenia’s Divisione Adriatica.

11 thoughts on “Blast from the past: Appia

  1. fascinating.
    A sign of how bad “state-run” thing can be.
    Luckily we have some private companies (Grimaldi, moby) with nice ships!

  2. Those were the days! Deep in december it’s nice to remember the fire of september (1968).
    Thank you,
    Leo van Eechoud

  3. DEAR SIRS,THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR THE WONDERFUL PRESENTATION OF F/B APPIA.IT SHALL BE VERY KIND OF YOU IF YOU COULD SUGGEST ME A SIMILAR PRESENTATION OF “EGNATIA” AND EVENTUALLY REPORTAGE OF THE INNAGURATION OF THE LINE ON 1961.THANK YOU IN ADVANCE,BEST REGARDS, NICHOLAS SOURELIS,IOANNINA,GREECE.

  4. It is nice to see those old pictures. We used this ferry in August 1977 to go from Patras to Brindisi. We were backpacking and spent the whole trip outside (no cabin)

  5. Thanks for the memories. I sailed with Appia twice, once from Patras to Brindisi in 1962 and once 11 years later, from Brindisi to Patras. In 1962, being an 11 year old child, I was fascinated by the luxury of the ship and also that I could get chocolate ice cream! It also had television, 1st time I saw it (there was a rugby game Italy France I remember). Also 1st time I saw a shop onboard a ship (my father bought an Aqua Velva cologne). Quite memorable.

  6. JULY 1970 I WAS JUST RELEASED FROM THE U S ARMY HEIDELBERG GERMANY BOARDED THE APPIA GOT OFF IN CORFU HOT BABES EVERYWHERE I STAYED FOR 2 MONTHS GROWING HAIR MEETING WONDERFUL PEOPLE INCLUDING A 16 YEAR OLD ENGLISH GIRL WHO WAS TOTALLY BEAUTIFUL INSIDE AND OUT WHAT A WONDERFUL EXPERIENCE TO BE FREE AND HAPPY!

  7. JULY 1970 JUST OUT OF THE U S ARMY IN HEIDELBERG GERMANY ONTO THE APPIA OFF AT CORFU FOR 2 MONTHS OF
    WONDERFUL PEOPLE SOME HAIR GROWIN’ SOME BABE CHASIN’ SOME TANNIN’ WHAT AN UNFORGETTABLE SUMMER! MEMORIES TO LAST A LIFETIME! THANKS FOR THE RIDE APPIA

  8. I traveled from Brindisi to Patras on this line every summer from 1970-1974. We were stationed in Naples and I would go visit my relatives in Athen and Elia. Wonderful times with great food, swimming and the beautiful sea.

  9. Magic ships,
    even if they were just ferry boats,they had all the allure of the big state ships. I’ve sailed on the Appia several times from 1970 to 1975,for summer holidays in Greece with my parents,my brother and our car. I perfectly remember the restaurant with the excellent italian food,the pool,that for me was the best because of the slide,and the elegant cabins. We also travelled on the Egnatia,that was equally handsome,and with more polite crew members. With the Appia the problem was that during those years,italian crews were totally conditioned by the trade unions,and they were often on strike,or the waiters were speaking each other of trade union problems while serving you at the restaurant. I also remember other ships that linked Italy with Greece in those years,such as the venerable Poseidonia of the Hellenic Mediterranean lines,and the ill fated Heleanna,of Efthymiadis Lines,at the time the biggest ferry in the world,with her pool,her spacious decks,her nice cabins,and the tipical layout of a former tanker.

  10. I found some old letters of mine that I sent to my family while in Europe and see that I sailed on the M/S. Appia (just me, no car) in 1972. I was a 20 year old college student on a summer abroad. Boarded the ship on Saturday July 15 in Patras, Greece. The ship left about 10:30 pm and arrived in Corfu Sunday morning at 8 am. I had a bed in a shared berth with three other passengers. I left that same Sunday night for Brindisi – but the ship was much less crowded and I had a bed in a berth all to myself. We dropped anchor in Brindisi Italy at 8 am Monday morning July 17. From there I took a train to Naples.

  11. I was’nt already 13 when we made a family holiday car trip on easter 1977 from the center of Germany to Greece. We decided to go from Patras via Igoumenitsa to Brindisi and drive way back north through italy. It was a remarkably Trip partly along the Albanian coast which was some kind of terra incognita way back then. The ferry still had the aura of the doöce vita like italian 60ies and 70ies and it was for all of us the first time to spend that long time on sea and on a vessel. It was a wonderful holiday which created awesome memories and we all did never forget the contemplative time on the via appia in that very extraordinary year 1977

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